Geothermal Savings Calculator

See what a ground-source heat pump saves on heating and cooling each year, and the honest payback on its premium over simply replacing your current system.

$ /yr
$ /yr
%

How much less you expect to spend on heating and cooling in total once the system runs, with the heat pump’s own electricity already counted. The gain is biggest against electric resistance heat or oil, and smallest against a modern high-efficiency gas system where gas is cheap.

$

The quoted price with the ground loop included. This is the number that swings most between sites, because the loop is the expensive part.

$

What you would actually spend if you did not go geothermal: a like-for-like furnace or boiler and air conditioner, installed. If your current system is fine and you are not replacing it, enter 0 and the payback will be on the full price.

Yearly energy savings

$1,375/year

On the full $28,000 the payback looks like 20.4 years. But $9,000 of that was going out the door anyway, so the honest figure is 13.8 years on the $19,000 premium.

  • Heating and cooling now$2,500
  • Net premium over a conventional replacement$19,000
  • Payback on the full price20.4 years
  • Payback on the premium13.8 years

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How it works

A ground-source heat pump does not make heat. It moves it. In winter it pulls warmth out of the ground, which holds a steady moderate temperature all year once you are a few feet down, and delivers it indoors.

In summer it runs backwards and dumps your house’s heat into that same ground. Moving heat takes far less energy than creating it, which is why a ground loop can deliver several units of warmth for every unit of electricity it draws, and why efficiency figures above 100% are ordinary here and impossible for anything that burns fuel. One machine does both jobs, so it cuts the heating bill and the cooling bill at once:

Saving = (heating + cooling) × reduction%  ·  Payback = (geothermal − conventional) ÷ Saving
  • heating and cooling — what each costs you now in a year
  • reduction% — how much less you expect to spend on both once it is running
  • geothermal — the installed price, ground loop included
  • conventional — what a like-for-like replacement of your current system would have cost

That second cost is the one most comparisons quietly leave out, and it is the difference between a fair answer and a discouraging one. If your furnace and air conditioner are at the end of their lives, you are not choosing between spending $28,000 and spending nothing. You are choosing between spending $28,000 and spending $9,000.

Only the $19,000 gap is a real decision. On the defaults, $1,800 of heating plus $700 of cooling is $2,500 a year, a 55% reduction saves $1,375 of it, and that premium comes back in about 13.8 years, against 20.4 years if you charge the whole sticker to the upgrade.

Every result is checked against independent reference math. See how we test the calculators →

A worked example: $28,000 of geothermal against a $9,000 replacement

Say your furnace and air conditioner are both near the end. You spend $1,800 a year on heating and $700 on cooling, a total of $2,500. A ground-source quote comes in at $28,000, while replacing the furnace and AC like for like would run $9,000.

Expecting a 55% cut, the calculator puts the saving at $1,375 a year.

Now the part most comparisons skip. Charge the whole $28,000 to the upgrade and the payback reads 20.4 years, which sinks the idea on the spot. But you were spending $9,000 regardless, so the only money this decision is really about is the $19,000 premium, and $1,375 a year clears that in about 13.8 years.

Same house, same savings, a gap of nearly seven years, purely from framing the question correctly.

Change one number to see where it stops working. Set the replacement cost to zero, meaning your current system is fine and you are doing this early by choice, and the premium becomes the full $28,000 again: the payback stretches back out to 20.4 years while the saving sits unchanged at $1,375. Same saving, completely different verdict.

That is the whole decision in one input. Put your own bills and both quotes in above to see which side of it you are on.

Moving heat instead of making it

A furnace at 95% efficiency turns almost all of its fuel into heat, and it can never do better than all of it. One hundred percent is a wall for anything burning something. A heat pump is not playing that game.

It spends electricity running a compressor that shifts heat from one place to another, and how much it shifts is not capped by how much electricity it draws, any more than the weight you can move with a lever is capped by your own arm.

What makes the ground-source version good at it is where it trades heat. A few feet down, the earth sits at a steady moderate temperature all year, indifferent to the weather. An air-source heat pump has to pull warmth out of the outdoor air, which is coldest precisely when you need heat most, so it works hardest on the worst day.

A ground loop never sees that day. It faces the same mild earth in February that it faced in June, which is why the reduction here is far larger than anything available on the combustion side, and why the same machine can turn around and cool the house in summer without a second system.

The loop field is the expensive part

The equipment indoors is not why a geothermal quote reads the way it does. The compressor and air handler are ordinary machines at ordinary prices. What makes it a geothermal quote is the loop: hundreds of feet of pipe that has to get into the earth, and the earth is not negotiable.

If you have land and workable soil, a horizontal loop goes in with a trencher over a couple of days, which is the cheap version. If you do not have the acreage, or the trencher hits rock, the loop goes down instead of out: vertical boreholes, drilled, often several hundred feet each. That is a rig, a crew, and a day rate, and it is why two near-identical houses can get quotes thousands of dollars apart for the same equipment.

The soil matters again after that, because damp, dense ground trades heat far better than dry sand, so a poor site needs more pipe for the same capacity. A pond or a suitable well can change the picture entirely.

The practical consequence: get a real site assessment before you trust either the price or the reduction. The loop is not a line you can value-engineer later.

A long payback, read honestly

Even on the premium, this is a long wait, and it deserves to be called that. Two things make it more tolerable than the raw number looks.

The first is lifespan. The buried loop is the durable part, expected to outlast by decades the equipment sitting on top of it, and the indoor unit lives in a conditioned space and never faces weather, so it tends to run longer than a furnace and much longer than an outdoor condenser baking in the sun. Across a payback measured in decades that is not a footnote: a conventional setup might be bought twice over the same span, and those avoided replacements are real money this calculation never shows you.

The second is timing, and it is the whole point of the premium input. Fitting a ground loop to a house whose system works fine means paying the entire sticker, which is the longer of the two paybacks above, and that case is genuinely hard to make. At replacement time, or in new construction where the excavator is already on site and a conventional system was always going to be bought, the comparison is a fair fight.

If your current system has ten good years in it, the usual honest answer is to wait, and spend the money on the building envelope in the meantime.

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Common questions

What reduction should I expect?

It depends on what you are replacing and on your climate. The gain is largest against electric resistance heat or delivered oil, and thinnest against a modern high-efficiency gas system somewhere gas is cheap, where it can nearly vanish. The 55% default is a middle case.

A contractor’s load calculation read against your actual bills beats any rule of thumb, and it is worth running a low figure and a high one to see if the decision holds.

What do I put for the conventional replacement cost?

What you would genuinely spend if you did not do this: a like-for-like furnace or boiler and air conditioner, installed, including whatever else that job drags in. If your current system is fine and you are not replacing it, enter 0. The calculator will then show the payback on the full price, which is the true cost of choosing to do this early.

Why does it show two paybacks?

Because they answer different questions. The full-price figure is what you face if you tear out a working system to install this. The premium figure is what you face if you were buying something anyway.

Most published comparisons quote the first and most real decisions are the second, which is why the same system can look unjustifiable on the sticker and reasonable on the premium.

Does it work when the ground is frozen?

The loop sits below the frost line, where the ground holds a steady moderate temperature no matter what the weather above it is doing. That is the entire reason for going down rather than using outdoor air. Performance does sag slightly late in a long heating season, as you draw heat out faster than the ground replenishes it, which is one reason the loop is sized to your actual load.

How does this compare with an air-source heat pump?

An air-source unit costs far less to install because there is no loop, and modern cold-climate models are genuinely good. Geothermal’s edge is that it is not fighting the outdoor air, so it holds its efficiency through a cold snap when an air-source unit is straining and may lean on resistance backup. In a mild climate air-source often wins per dollar spent.

In a severe one, that gap is where the premium earns out.

Do incentives change the answer?

Incentives for ground-source systems exist in some places and change often, so check what applies where you live and treat anything you qualify for as a bonus on top of this math rather than as part of it.

Does the reduction include the heat pump’s own electricity?

It should. The figure is meant to be net: how much less you spend on heating and cooling altogether. If you base it only on the fuel you stop buying and forget that the compressor and the loop pump draw electricity of their own, the saving will come out too high and the payback too short.

Sources & further reading

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