Mortgage Payment Calculator
See your true monthly mortgage payment, principal, interest, taxes, and insurance, and how the balance falls over time.
Your monthly payment
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- Principal & interest–
- Property tax–
- Home insurance–
- Total monthly payment–
Year-by-year breakdown
| Year | Paid so far | Interest so far | Balance left |
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How it works
A mortgage payment has four parts, often called PITI: principal, interest, taxes, and insurance. The principal and interest are fixed by your loan amount, rate, and term through the standard amortized payment formula, while taxes and insurance are added on top and can drift over time:
- L — the loan amount (home price minus down payment)
- i — the monthly interest rate (APR ÷ 12)
- n — the number of monthly payments (years × 12)
With the defaults above, a $400,000 home with $80,000 down is a $320,000 loan. At 7% over 30 years, principal and interest come to about $2,129 a month, and adding property tax and insurance brings the true payment to roughly $2,654. Over the full term you would pay around $446,000 in interest alone, which is why the rate and term matter so much.
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What moves the payment most
Four numbers decide your payment, and they do not pull equally. Understanding which lever matters most helps you focus your energy where it actually changes the figure rather than sweating the details that barely move it.
- The term. A 15-year loan carries a much higher monthly payment than a 30-year, but a fraction of the lifetime interest. If the monthly fits, it is the cheapest way to own. The 30-year keeps the payment low and leaves room in the budget, which is why it remains the default choice for most buyers.
- The rate. Even half a percent changes the payment and adds tens of thousands over 30 years. Rates move with the wider economy and with your own credit score, so shopping several lenders and improving your credit before you apply are both worth the effort.
- The down payment. More down means a smaller loan and, past 20%, no private mortgage insurance. It is the one lever fully in your control at the start, and the difference between 10% and 20% down can be worth hundreds a month once PMI is removed from the equation.
- The price. The most obvious lever and the easiest to overlook. A cheaper home shrinks every other number at once, and buying below what a lender approves you for is the simplest way to keep the payment comfortable.
What the payment does and does not cover
The PITI figure here, principal, interest, taxes, and insurance, is the amount most lenders collect each month, usually bundling the tax and insurance portions into an escrow account and paying those bills on your behalf. But it is not the whole cost of living in the home. A few common costs sit outside it:
- HOA or condo fees. If your home is in an association, monthly dues are a separate bill that can run from modest to several hundred dollars, and they are not part of the mortgage payment.
- Private mortgage insurance. With less than 20% down, PMI is added until you build enough equity. It protects the lender, not you, and it is worth removing as soon as you qualify.
- Maintenance and repairs. A common rule of thumb sets aside about 1% of the home's value a year for upkeep. It is invisible until the roof or the water heater fails, so budgeting for it in advance keeps a surprise from becoming a crisis.
Adding these to the PITI figure gives the true monthly cost of ownership, which is often 10 to 20% above the mortgage payment alone.
Paying the mortgage down faster
Because interest is charged on the outstanding balance, anything extra you pay goes straight to principal and erases all the future interest that balance would have earned. Three approaches stand out:
- A little extra each month. Even $100 or $200 added to the payment can shave years off a 30-year loan and save tens of thousands in interest. It is the simplest and most flexible method.
- Biweekly payments. Paying half the monthly amount every two weeks results in 13 full payments a year instead of 12, quietly accelerating the payoff without a large budget change.
- A lump sum or recast. Applying a windfall to the balance, or asking the lender to recast the loan after a large payment, lowers either the term or the monthly payment while keeping the same rate.
Before paying extra, confirm the money is applied to principal and that your loan has no prepayment penalty, and weigh it against other priorities like high-interest debt or an underfunded emergency fund.
Common questions
Does this include PMI?
Not by default. If your down payment is under 20% of the price, lenders usually add private mortgage insurance, often 0.3% to 1.5% of the loan per year. Add that to the insurance figure to see the fuller payment.
Why is so much of the early payment interest?
Interest is charged on the outstanding balance, which is largest at the start, so early payments are mostly interest and only slowly shift toward principal. The amortization table shows exactly how the split changes each year.
Are property taxes really part of the payment?
Usually yes. Most lenders collect tax and insurance monthly through an escrow account and pay the bills for you, so your real monthly cost is the full PITI, not just principal and interest.
Should I take a 15-year or 30-year loan?
A 15-year loan saves enormously on interest but demands a higher monthly payment. A 30-year keeps payments low and flexible. Many people split the difference by taking the 30-year and paying extra when they can.
What is an escrow account?
It is an account your lender uses to collect your property tax and insurance a bit at a time inside the monthly payment, then pay those bills when they come due. It spreads two large annual costs across twelve months so you are not hit with a lump sum, and your monthly figure can change slightly when tax or insurance rates are reassessed.
Can I get rid of PMI later?
Usually yes. Once your loan balance falls to about 80% of the original value, you can typically request that private mortgage insurance be removed, and it often drops automatically at 78%. Rising home values or extra principal payments can get you there sooner, which is why many buyers treat reaching 20% equity as an early goal.
Is a fixed or adjustable rate better?
A fixed rate keeps your principal and interest the same for the life of the loan, which makes budgeting simple and protects you if rates rise. An adjustable rate often starts lower but can climb after an introductory period. Most buyers who plan to stay put prefer the certainty of a fixed rate; an adjustable rate mainly suits those confident they will move or refinance before it adjusts.
Sources & further reading
- CFPB, Owning a home: mortgages, rates, and closing costs
- HUD, Buying a home: homebuying steps and programs
- CFPB, Ask CFPB: PMI, escrow, and amortization explained
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