Home Equity Divorce Calculator
Work out the buyout: what the house’s equity is worth, what each side’s share comes to, and the new loan the spouse keeping the house would need. Math only, not legal advice.
Buyout to keep the house
$90,000
Keeping the house means paying them $90,000 and refinancing into a $310,000 loan, which is 77.5% of what the place is worth. That sits under the 80% ceiling most cash-out refinances stop at, so the loan is at least plausible if your income supports it.
- Home equity (value − mortgage)$180,000
- Your share (50%)$90,000
- Their share (50%)$90,000
- Sell instead: what each side nets$76,000 each
- New loan to keep the house$310,000
- Loan-to-value on the new loan77.5%
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How it works
When a couple splits and one of them wants to keep the house, the money question is narrow: what does the person leaving get paid for their half of it? Only the equity divides, not the value, because the mortgage still has to be repaid by somebody. So you subtract the loan from a value you both accept, split what is left, and then hit the part people forget. The spouse staying has to produce that cash, and a house is not a cash machine. In practice they refinance, and the new loan is the old balance plus the buyout:
- V — the home’s value, ideally from an appraisal you both accept
- M — the mortgage balance still owed on it
- V − M — the equity, the only part there is to divide
- S — the leaving spouse’s share of that equity, as a decimal
- (V − M) × S — the buyout, the cash the keeping spouse owes them
- New loan ÷ V — the loan-to-value a lender judges you on, usually capped near 80% on a cash-out refinance
With the defaults, a $400,000 home carrying a $220,000 mortgage holds $180,000 of equity, and a 50/50 split makes each share $90,000. To keep the house you pay them that $90,000 and refinance into a $310,000 loan, which is 77.5% of the value: under the usual 80% ceiling, but not by much. Sell instead and 7% of selling costs takes $28,000 off the top, leaving $152,000 to divide, or $76,000 each.
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A worked example: buying out a $400,000 house
You are keeping the house and buying your ex out of it. It appraised at $400,000 and the mortgage still has $220,000 on it, so the equity, the only part there is to divide, is $180,000. Split down the middle, each share is $90,000, and that is the check you write.
The buyout is the easy half. To raise it you refinance the $220,000 you already owe plus the $90,000 you now owe them, so the new loan is $310,000 against a $400,000 house. That is a 77.5% loan-to-value, just under the 80% most cash-out refinances stop at, and you must qualify for all of it on one income. The alternative: selling instead pays 7% in costs and leaves each of you $76,000. The buyout hands them $14,000 more than a sale would, because nobody pays an agent.
Now move one number. If your share is 40% rather than half, you owe them $108,000, the new loan climbs to $328,000, and the loan-to-value hits 82%. The result turns red, because many standard cash-out programs stop before there, though a buyout ordered in a decree can sometimes be written as a rate-and-term loan with more room, so ask before assuming. Without some refinance your ex stays on the mortgage. Put your own value, balance, and agreed share in above.
Being off the deed is not being off the mortgage
This is the most expensive misunderstanding in a house split, and it catches people who did everything else right. The deed and the mortgage are two different documents doing two different jobs, and signing away one does nothing at all to the other.
- The deed says who owns it. A quitclaim deed hands your ownership to your ex. It takes minutes and costs almost nothing.
- The mortgage says who owes it. That is a contract with a lender who was never part of your divorce and never agreed to release anyone. Your name stays on the note until the loan is repaid.
So you can sign the house away completely and stay liable for every payment on it. The debt keeps showing on your credit, keeps counting against you when you try to borrow for a place of your own, and lands back on you the moment your ex stops paying. A decree ordering them to pay does not bind the lender. It only gives you the right to sue somebody who has already run out of money. Two things actually remove you: a refinance in their name alone, or a sale. A release of liability or a loan assumption occasionally works, but most loans do not allow one. Make the refinance a dated deadline in the agreement, with a sale as the automatic consequence if it does not happen.
The new loan has to clear on one income
The refinance that solves the problem is also the hardest part of the plan, because it asks for more from less. The loan gets bigger, since it now carries the buyout on top of the old balance, while the household income standing behind it has just been cut roughly in half.
- The 80% ceiling. Most cash-out refinances stop near 80% of the home’s value. Push the new loan past that line and the options thin out quickly. The result above flags it when you cross.
- Debt to income. A bigger payment on one salary can blow past what an underwriter will accept even with plenty of equity behind it. Equity does not qualify you. Income does.
- Support cuts both ways. Depending on the loan and how long it has been ordered to run, alimony or child support you receive may count as income, and support you pay usually counts against you. Ask a lender rather than assuming either.
- The rate resets. If the old loan is cheaper than today’s rates, the keeping spouse throws that away. Over a full term that can cost more than the buyout does.
Get a real pre-approval before signing anything that promises a buyout. An agreement built on a refinance nobody qualifies for turns into a forced sale later, on worse terms and a worse schedule.
Agree on the value before you argue about the split
Every number here hangs off one input: what the house is worth. Get that wrong and the fairest split percentage in the world still hands somebody the short end.
- Use an appraisal, not a website. An online estimate is a model guessing from public records. It has never seen your kitchen and it can miss by tens of thousands in either direction. Pay for a real appraisal, and agree on the appraiser first so neither of you gets to dismiss the answer afterwards.
- Notice which way the incentives run. Whoever keeps the house wants a low value, because it shrinks the buyout. Whoever leaves wants a high one. That is not bad faith, it is arithmetic, and it is exactly why the number should come from somebody with no stake in it.
Then compare the two rows that rarely get read together. At the defaults the buyout is $90,000, but a sale nets each side $76,000. The leaving spouse is $14,000 better off taking the buyout, because a buyout never pays the 7% of selling costs. The keeping spouse pays those costs later, whenever they eventually sell. That gap is real money, and it belongs in the negotiation instead of being discovered a year afterwards.
Common questions
Why does the calculator start at a 50/50 split?
Because it is the most common starting point, not because it is a rule. Some states divide marital property equally by statute. Most divide it equitably, which means fairly rather than evenly, and can land anywhere. Equity traced to a down payment made before the marriage, or to an inheritance, may not be marital property at all. Set the percentage to what you have actually agreed or been ordered, not to what feels even.
Will a quitclaim deed get my name off the mortgage?
No. It transfers ownership and nothing else. Your lender was not a party to the divorce and does not have to release you from a loan you signed. Until the mortgage is refinanced or the house is sold, you remain on the hook for it and it keeps showing on your credit report, whatever the deed or the decree says.
What if the new loan comes out above 80% loan-to-value?
Then the plan needs another lever. You can shrink the buyout by trading it against other assets, so less of it has to be borrowed. You can bring cash from savings. You can ask lenders about the buyout carve-outs: a buyout ordered in a divorce decree can sometimes be written as a rate-and-term refinance rather than a cash-out, which lifts the usual ceiling, so do not treat 80% as final before asking. Or you sell, which is the option people fight hardest to avoid and most often end up at anyway.
Why is the buyout bigger than my half of a sale?
Selling costs. A buyout divides the gross equity, while a sale only divides what survives the agent, the closing costs, and everything else taken off the top first. Nobody pays those costs in a buyout, so the leaving spouse walks away with more. Worth knowing which side of that gap you are on before you insist on selling, or refuse to.
What if we owe more than the house is worth?
Then there is no equity to divide, and the calculator says so rather than inventing a buyout. The conversation changes from who gets what to who carries the shortfall, and selling means somebody brings money to the closing instead of leaving with it. That situation almost always needs professional help, both legal and financial.
Does this replace legal advice?
No, and please do not use it that way. This is arithmetic on four numbers you typed in. What actually happens to a house depends on the law where you live, on whether the home or some slice of its equity counts as separate rather than marital property, on what the two of you negotiate, and on what a judge will sign. Take this figure to a lawyer as a starting point for the conversation, not as the answer to it.
Should the buyout be borrowed, or paid from other assets?
Either, and mixing them is common. The calculator shows the borrowed version, where the keeping spouse raises the cash against the house, because that is the one with the refinance problem attached. If there are retirement accounts or savings to trade instead, the buyout shrinks or disappears, which lowers the new loan and makes it far easier to qualify for. Just compare after-tax value when you do, since a dollar in a retirement account is not a dollar in checking.
Sources & further reading
- CFPB, Owning a home: mortgages, rates, and closing costs
- HUD, Buying a home: homebuying steps and programs
- CFPB, Ask CFPB: PMI, escrow, and amortization explained
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